11' old town

Ok i have been sanding. I sanded for about an hour with a orbiral sander with 120 grit.am i looking to rough up the paint and take any lose stuff off, or should it be more involved. Like sand most of the paint off., when i was sanding alot more paint has come off , should i have all the cracks feathered smooth or does it really matter?
 
Does it really matter? It's up to you.

Here is another picture of my canoe from last summer -- same canoe and same paint job as in the earlier pictures above where the paint job does not look so bad. But because of the light in this picture, you can readily see the cracks in the old paint. It is apparent that even with new paint, the surface is not cosmetically perfect. I had spent maybe a half-hour of sanding by hand before applying two coats of paint. But the new paint itself is not cracked, and there is no water leaking through the paint. So feathering out the old crack edges is not functionally necessary.

The canoe was used several times last summer, and was paddled in two different bogs on two different days this past weekend. The second picture was taken on Friday at the put-in on the Passadumkeag River, Maine, after paddling several hours through the adjacent Cold Stream bog, cracks present, but not visible. The third picture was taken on Sunday, when putting into the West Shirley Bog in Maine. Again, because of lighting, the old paint cracks are apparent. But parked on the side of the road in Monson while enjoying music and barbeque, the cracks are not apparent and not an issue (4th and 5th pics). Indeed, one of the people listening to the music who had commented favorably on the canoe asked if it was being used, or was just being displayed somewhere. (By the way, the music was provided by guide and paddle maker and WCHA member Alexandra Conover on the accordian and friends.)

I would guess that if you've spent an hour with a r/o sander, your canoe already has a smoother surface than mine, and there is certainly nothing wrong with going for better (I appreciate a really fine paint job on a canoe as much as anyone -- I just don't want to do the work on this canoe at this time) -- depends on how much effort you want to put in and how long it may be before you redo the canvas.
 

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Does it really matter? It's up to you.

Here is another picture of my canoe from last summer -- same canoe and same paint job as in the earlier pictures above where the paint job does not look so bad. But because of the light in this picture, you can readily see the cracks in the old paint. It is apparent that even with new paint, the surface is not cosmetically perfect. I had spent maybe a half-hour of sanding by hand before applying two coats of paint. But the new paint itself is not cracked, and there is no water leaking through the paint. So feathering out the old crack edges is not functionally necessary.

The canoe was used several times last summer, and was paddled in two different bogs on two different days this past weekend. The second picture was taken on Friday at the put-in on the Passadumkeag River, Maine, after paddling several hours through the adjacent Cold Stream bog, cracks present, but not visible. The third picture was taken on Sunday, when putting into the West Shirley Bog in Maine. Again, because of lighting, the old paint cracks are apparent. But parked on the side of the road in Monson while enjoying music and barbeque, the cracks are not apparent and not an issue (4th and 5th pics). Indeed, one of the people listening to the music who had commented favorably on the canoe asked if it was being used, or was just being displayed somewhere. (By the way, the music was provided by guide and paddle maker and WCHA member Alexandra Conover on the accordian and friends.)

I would guess that if you've spent an hour with a r/o sander, your canoe already has a smoother surface than mine, and there is certainly nothing wrong with going for better (I appreciate a really fine paint job on a canoe as much as anyone -- I just don't want to do the work on this canoe at this time) -- depends on how much effort you want to put in and how long it may be before you redo the canvas.

How was the music and did you dance to the tune?
 
1933 Lightweight

Derek's little canoe has new skin and paint. The Kirby's went on nicely.
 

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Well, like most things prep is important. The filler went on nice and smooth, then there are two coats of Pre-Kote primer, sanding between coats (120 and 220 grit). Then two coats of color. I am pretty much a hit or miss painter. The weather cooperated. I added about an ounce of thinner and maybe 3 oz. of Penetrol to the Kirby's quart. I rolled it on with a small 4 inch(?) roller and then tipped it off. Actually, I did brush it out quite a bit too before tipping. Tipping vertically lately and then horizontally. I think this helps avoid curtains and sags, which undoubtably will show up in my next paint job...:(;)
 
Congratulations. Looks great. In those early pictures the seat caning patern was different than what I have seen on Old Towns of that era. Any comments?
 
Derek is recaning his seats and may be able to say more, but the seat in the photo has "canoe weave". It could have been recaned at some point, but I have seen a few OT's around this age with canoe weave patterns - even a couple with the diagonals doubled up which is a neat look and a tough seat.
 
Thanks Fitz. If there is a closer picture or description of how to cane that I'd like to see it. I'm soaking cane right now for my fourth seat, and this one is a Pen Yan Kingfisher but I'm doing it like a Morris, which has the corner holes. First one I've done w/o mistakes. :):)
 
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