Jim,
If your sawmill is a band mill rather than a circular mill you might consider doing what I do with my bandsaw mill when cutting w. cedar for my canoe projects. I saw the logs right in half using the hydraulic roller/log lifters on the mill to align the log so that the cut will be as close to going down the very center of the log as possible. Once cut, I then push the top half log to the side onto the log lifter and flip the bottom half with the sawn side against the mill side stops. I then thrucut the half log from top to bottom which gives me a few flat sawn pieces at the very top and bottom but all quarter sawn pieces for the rest of the half log. I leave the bark and sapwood on the one edge as I have a nice straight edge on the other side to work from when cutting to the widths I want in the shop. Since I try to work with all 20 foot logs , I do another sawing technique that is only economically feasible when doing stock for yourself (unless you are sawing for the customer on the hourly basis rather than board footage basis). I cut all my pieces 1/8"-3/16" thicker than my finished thickness. Once dry, I run the pieces thru the planer, one side only for planking and both sides, one pass for rib stock. This avoids wrestling with long stock in the shop trying to resaw on the shop band saw to the same thicknesses I can do on the Woodmizer mill but much easier. Since a circular sawmill takes out a 1/4" kerf ,too much wood would be wasted and this technique would not be feasible on that type of sawmill. But where a bandsaw mill blade kerf is about 1/8" or quite close to the kerf of the shop bandsaw, this technique is quite feasible. Wood wastage is minimal. Works well for me. Try it, you'll like it!!!