Waterlox Marine for Canoes?

Ezra Smith

Curious about Wooden Canoes
I will be building a 15ft wood and canvas boat for some solo adventures. Varnishing is a ways off of course, but I wanted to see if there is anyone on here who has had experience using Waterlox products on their boats? I would probably use their original as a sealer and then use their marine on top of that. I have used it on furniture and it has the huge benefit of not having to sand between coats (assuming that you are ok with not having a surface with some dust in it. Also, it is advertised as a wiping varnish so it would go on thinner, but in a more forgiving way. Thoughts?
 
A good many of us use Epifanes Varnish.
Epifanes Woodfinish Gloss does not require sanding between coats as long as it is recoated within 72 hours.
My typical application is 3-4 coats of Woodfinish Gloss, sand, then Epifanes Clear Gloss for the final coat.
 
A good many of us use Epifanes Varnish.
Epifanes Woodfinish Gloss does not require sanding between coats as long as it is recoated within 72 hours.
My typical application is 3-4 coats of Woodfinish Gloss, sand, then Epifanes Clear Gloss for the final coat.
I also use the Epifanes. On a fresh hull I apply 4 coats of the Clear and if it's an old boat I often finish with one coat of the Matte to knock back the shine. I thin the first few coats. It's amazing how the Matte can make 4 or 5 coats of varnish vanish. I do sand lightly between coats. I'll say now that I don't mind the small amount of sanding but don't ask me when I'm in the middle of it. I may try the Woodfinish on the 20 footer I have in queue. I ordered it by accident.
 
Sanding at some point is inevitable if you want it to look good. There is no way to make varnished cedar pleasing to my eyes without sanding. However I do use the Woodfinish Gloss for build up coats. Most folks thin their varnish. I don’t. To me it soaks into raw cedar just fine out of the can.
I’ve been using the Epifanes Matte with more frequency as a final coat. It gives a had rubbed appearance.
I use it more often on canoes that are sorta rough on the inside. It gives a smoother look.
I have been thinning the matte some to give it longer open time. The stuff sets up quickly!
 
I also used Epifanes on the last boat. I am not opposed to sanding, I just see it as an added bonus. I will definitely keep the 72hr rule in mind. One of the things that attracts me about the waterlox is the the fact that one does not really have to worry about brush strokes because it is thinned. I suppose that one could say the same thing about thinning Epifanes. Also, I have a gallon kicking around looking for some wood to go on ;) I may use some kind of sealer and the Marine on the back of the ribs before I plank, and then use it as well on the outside of the hull. I used Epifanes rapid clear on my last boat for the outside of the hull. I will then probably just proceed with the waterlox for the interior. It all depends on how far the gallon will go! Since it is tung oil anyways I do not see any issue with compatibility of I decide to put the Epifanes over top of it. Which I very well may end up doing if I get frustrated with the Waterlox not building fast enough.
 
I'd like to hear how the waterlox turns out, sounds interesting. I have real good luck between coats with scotch brite pads. either the maroon or white ones. you can fold it and cut it into nice pieces ,it gets in all the curves. also my dog used to chase people on a bike. It got so bad I had to take his bike away. :)
 
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