One Armed Paper Hanging and Keels.

Fitz

Wooden Canoes are in the Blood
In Memoriam
Any tips out there on single handed keel installation? I can't drum up a lot of help from the family members - I'm up to my elbows in bedding compound, and need to keep everything straight, drill holes, screw in the screws etc, etc. and I'm pretty much alone doing this. :eek:

Any tips, greatly appreciated.
 
Hey John, If you're looking for advice on one-armed paper hanging, I don't have any. If you need an extra pair of hands, I'd be willing. I think you know how to reach me. Tom
 
I use the same tie-down straps that I use to strap the canoe to the roof. Snug it down good, make sure all is in alignment, choose a hole (I start at center), drill straight, and screw it on. Double check everything is still aligned, skip a few holes, and repeat. If your keel is tapered (i.e. there is no outside stem), the last few screws are set from the outside and you can do that easily enough, either first or after you lock the center.
 
Straight and Narrow.

Yah, Dan, I think I will try the tie down straps and have at it, and now that you mention it I guess I'll start from the center - although I was tempted to start from just beyond the stem bands and head north...hmmmn

Tom, I'm done for today and I'll likely be installing the keel some night this week, but I can't predict when beyond my nose. Thanks for the offer. I'll try the straps and beg for assistance if I can't get it to work.

Okay, do you folks butter your keel or butter your boat? I buttered the keel the last time and think I prefer that.

(Can you tell I'm paranoid about keel installation - yet another reason to lose them!!!) :D

Thanks for the advice.
 
Fitz,

I do this all the time (never had help!). Here's how I do it:

1. With canoe upside-down, drill from underneath through the filled canvas at a few spots, including the rib screw locations nearest bow and stern.

2. On the outside, snap or draw a line connecting the holes (the extra holes drilled in center screw locations will help assure you that your line is straight and correct). If you use a chalkline, just tie one end off to a nail inserted through one of the end holes you drilled.

3. Measure out from the line half the width of the keel and mark at a few locations (an indelible pen like a Sharpie is easy on the eyes). This will be the edge line of the keel; one edge is sufficient.

4. Apply bedding compund to the keel, position it along your marks, and then weight it down somehow. I have thought straps might work, but because I worry about the keel moving, I choose more force. You could brace from a ceiling, but because I prefer to work outdoors in the Florida breezes, I place a folded moving blanket on the canoe and over the keel in two places, and add a cement block to hold the keel down- no budging here!

5. Pre-drill if needed, and add screws, being sure to pull the keel down tightly. After applying a few screws in the areas around each weight, move the weight to new areas, checking that keel is still on the mark, and keep adding screws. Adding final attachments from outside through the keel and into stems requires nothing special, of course.

Quick and easy, works like a charm every time, always perfectly straight, no slippage, and no damage to filler or keel.

Hope this helps,
Michael
 
Keel instalation

I do the same as Dan M. except I first run a strip of masking tape from fore to aft and just to one side of the keel before it is installed. This is used as a guide to get a straight keel. The loose keel is then caulked and put into place on the up turned hull. To hold it in place while you drill and screw use several cross strips of clear shipping tape.
 
Keel

a good friend and canoe builder Woodrow Macdonald (89 years ) velcroed his keel on. (removable)
this was done on his 12 foot pack model but Beware it has to be put on in short strips as his first try we coudn't get it off as all 12 feet has quite a grip
 
Harvey,

What an amazingly unique idea! You and Mr. Macdonald have inspired me- I think I'll go home right now and begin working on a velcroed lapstrake sailing canoe . Just think of it! You could change the freeboard in an instant, alter deck configuration according to the weather, or even velcro on a small motor if the headwind is just too strong! I might be famous just as fast- the Velcro Canoe is sure to be a hit with David Letterman! I suppose some care would be required with the sail, though, so the whole think didn't end up a tangled mess of wood, sailcloth and sailor all bound up in yards of velcro like some huge hairy-armed octopus devouring a meal... hmmmm...

Michael ;)
 
keel

yes but it has its drawbacks when going without the keel that is with 1/2 of the velcro strip stuck on the bottom fishhooks love to get tangled in it, weeds love to grab it, and i bet dan's beard would probably get snafooed in it
perhaps a velcro sail would really catch the wind and hold it in your sails
 
So I'm wondering... which part got left on the canoe when this keel was removed, furry or crispy?
 
Seriously - I've done a few big glue jobs. Once I'd gotten all the parts buttered up all the clamping plans seemed to change.

The first suggestion I'd make is to load up all your pockets with paper towels, maybe even a few tucked in your belt.

To keep the slimey parts where they should be when you clamp, prep the parts by putting several tack in at least one of the pieces so that the points just protrude. Dry fit the pieces, just to be sure that everything goes where it should. After you get the glue spread, everything should stay where you put it and you can concentrate on keeping up with the sqweezout.

Good luck.
 
I would set the keel and drill holes first, then remove it and apply the bedding compound, then re-install it. That way you're not fighting two things at once.
 
I've been pre-drilling the keels lately and it seems to be working well. With the holes drilled through the canvas, lay the keel on the hull and mark on the keel where each screw will be. I then use a tapered bit with a little masking tape on it to mark the proper depth and pre-drill the holes in the center of the keel. Then, as mentioned above, before applying bedding compound, mark a few hole locations on the side of the keel and on the hull, and a few short lines on the hull where the edge of the keel will fall. Then butter up the keel and lay it on.
Again, as above, starting in the middle with the keel weighted, find the middle screw hole with a thin drill bit or the like and fasten. Do the same on each end, a couple of ribs back from the stem, and then screw in the remainder.
The pre drilled holes are easy for the screws to find and the weight is no longer needed so the process moves right along. So far the keels been straight and tight.

Dan
 
Done!

Thank you all for the numerous tips. I used a combination of many. I used a chalk line down the center and marked the outside edge for the keel. Buttered the keel up and made some marks on the keel for a few key screws. I held it down with straps, because I had them handy. I also predrilled. Anyway, it came out nice and straight.

Thanks again.
 
line and kerf

hay Michael - I do mine by cutting a "shallow" X 1/16" kerf on the hull side of the keel with the tablesaw-straight: predrill the hull using a block of wood to press on the canvas to keep it from possible tearing out;get 4 weights and two pieces of rope and you drape the 'clamp' over the keel over the hull;find the kerf through each hole;center mark -ice pick works great;remove and predrill the keel; butter up; now the old veneition blinds are handy to put on the hull -3" long per / seem to work; now put the keel on these riser strips; get all your screws started and remove the arched risers. Tighten er down and ya got-er done.no fuss no mess.Lee...:rolleyes:
 
Back
Top