I don't know where you are getting your instruction from, but I think the only problem you have is one of perception of the directions and/or methods for building a stripper. Epoxy resin is not varnish, and it doesn't behave and self-level like varnish. Nobody (and I mean NOBODY) can roll, squeegee or brush epoxy filler coats on a canoe and wind-up with a suitably smooth surface ready to show the world. You fill until you have completely covered the cloth texture and then sand or scrape it until it's truly smooth, followed by varnishing. Trying to fill so neatly with epoxy that there is no need for final smoothing is both impossible and the true mark of an amateur building job.
Drips in filler coats don't really matter because they will be removed as part of the process (or at least they should be if your goal is to build a good boat). It may take a few additional seconds with a sander or scraper to remove a hardened drip than it would have to prep a smooth spot, but that is the only penalty you pay for having drips. When I fill I totally ignore drips and don't waste any time at all worrying about them during the filling process. They will be removed later with no problem as a normal part of the finishing process and the hull will end up as smooth as a baby's butt.
There are, however, some things that ARE very important in the process. Getting the cloth down tight on the surface, careful roller and squeegee work to avoid introducing a lot of tiny bubbles in the cloth and being sure that you have adequate thickness of filler coats in order to be able to do your final smoothing without cutting into the cloth. The dumbest thing in strip building are directions that specify how many filler coats you should add to hide the weave.
This is one of my pet peeves and every single strip builder should understand it. Different brands of epoxy resin and different specific formulas within those brands have different viscosities - some are thicker and more syruppy, others tend to be a bit thinner. As temperature varies (both workshop temp and the temperature of the resin itself at various points during the application) the viscosity of the resin also varies. It will actually even be changing as you are applying it. Different application tools and different builder's application techniques also vary considerably. The end result of all this is that nobody can tell you ahead of time how many filler coats you will need. You make that decision as you work. The safest rule of thumb to get the weave covered and give yourself a little cushion to allow you to sand later without cutting into the fiberglass cloth is actually quite simple:
"Add filler coats as needed until the weave it totally covered and not visible anywhere - - and then add one more filler coat."
Depending on the conditions, the particular resin and your application style, this might take three or four coats, but it might also take six. The important thing is not how many coats it takes, but how well the cloth is covered when your done. The final resin thickness should be the same either way, it's just a matter of what it takes to get there. Once cured, you're ready to sand or scrape as needed until the surface is smooth, drip-free and ready to varnish and be proud of. With a $50, 5" random orbit sander you can go from "drip-mania" to professionally smooth and ready for varnish in two or three hours of not particularly difficult work.