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Best Adhesive for Scarfing Rib Tips

Discussion in 'Wood and Canvas' started by ewitzel, Aug 10, 2019.

  1. ewitzel

    ewitzel Curious about Wooden Canoes

    I was wondering what folks have used when scarfing on new rib tips. I'm thinking about using Gorilla Glue but not sure if it would be suitable; any suggestions would be welcome.
     
  2. mccloud

    mccloud Wooden Canoe Maniac

    My choice is West 105/206 epoxy. In fact, I did 2 yesterday and will do two more this afternoon. Have done dozens and never had a failure. Use the same for inwale extensions. Gorilla glue will work, but in my experience I have not been impressed with its strength. Tom McCloud
     
  3. OP
    OP
    ewitzel

    ewitzel Curious about Wooden Canoes

    Thanks! This is exactly the sort of info I was in need of! I will try the epoxy that you've successfully used.
     
  4. Dan Lindberg

    Dan Lindberg Ex Wood Hoarder

    I would/also use epoxy, but other brands.
    I'm not a fan of polyurethane glues (including Gorilla glue), in my experience they "foam up" in gaps, and there is no strength in foam.
     
  5. OP
    OP
    ewitzel

    ewitzel Curious about Wooden Canoes

    Sounds like epoxy is the way to go. What brands of epoxy do you favor? Have you found that some are some easier to work with? etc.
     
  6. mccloud

    mccloud Wooden Canoe Maniac

    Like I said, West System 105 resin/206 hardener, but then I've used it for so long that it doesn't surprise me. Mix, paint it over both surfaces, mix a little with sanding dust, paint a little of that on, align the parts and clamp firmly without overdoing the pressure. I've seen folks wrap the parts in a strip of plastic cut from a Home Depot bag to keep the resin off their clamps. Whatever works for you.
     
  7. Dan Lindberg

    Dan Lindberg Ex Wood Hoarder

    For use as an adhesive it's not as big a deal but, I like 2-1 mixes, (rather then say a 7-1) and I don't like any blushing resin in my shop, but that's just me.
    I've used MAS, System 3, Raka and Adtech, all work well.

    Dan

     
  8. MGC

    MGC Paddlephile

    I lean towards G-Flex for this repair. I like the slow set time since it let's me move things around if the need tweaking. I also like that it is trimmable for a while while it's setting.
    I do not use Gorilla glue...it's on my is of things I've tried that I wish I hadn't.
     
  9. Dan Lindberg

    Dan Lindberg Ex Wood Hoarder

    Mike, are you talking about West G-Flex? if so, this looks interesting and worth trying. (I've never seen it before)

    Dan
     
  10. MGC

    MGC Paddlephile

    Yes...it's like almond butter. Once you try it you'll be using it on everything.
    What I like about it is that it is strong but not brittle and the set time is very benign. It gives you lots of time to position things and if you are paying attention and time it right you can trim off off any over-flow before it sets hard. If you've been following the repair of the cedar rib G-Flex was used in that repair. In the recently posted images you can see some runs and blobs that could be trimmed off with a sharp knife.
    I've repaired everything from gunstocks to hiking boots with it. You can blend in sanding dust or dye to get wood color match. One forum participant (Russ) uses it on Royalex hulls. He blends in with coloring agent with pretty amazing results.
    It is a bit pricey but worth every cent.
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2019 at 8:47 AM
    Dan Lindberg and JimT like this.
  11. Dan Miller

    Dan Miller cranky canoeist Staff Member

    I've also switched over to G-Flex (or whatever Jamestown Distributors house brand equivalent is).
     
    Dan Lindberg and MGC like this.
  12. Blott

    Blott Enthusiastic about Wooden Canoes

    I like G-Flex. When I first got my cedar rib I used it because it stays flexible and will move with the wood so wont tear the cedar . It can stretch and compress. And yes the trimming of the excess blobs is on my list before I re-varnish!

    Nick
     
  13. Howie

    Howie Wooden Canoe Maniac

    So... you folks recommend G-Flex over Tightbond-2 or TB-3?
     
  14. Dave Osborn

    Dave Osborn LIFE MEMBER

    I use G-Flex for 95% of all my glueing.
    Strong, but not brittle. Canoes move, so I thought it would be the best.
     
    MGC and Dan Lindberg like this.
  15. MGC

    MGC Paddlephile

    I rarely use TB2, and occasionally TB3... I use TB when I build seats for gluing the dowels, things like that. G-Flex almost everywhere else, splices, deck repairs, thwart repairs, stems, rail repairs...all G-Flex.
     
  16. OP
    OP
    ewitzel

    ewitzel Curious about Wooden Canoes

    Thanks to all for their insights and suggestions; I used G-Flex today and successfully scarfed on two new rib tips.
     
  17. Dave Wermuth

    Dave Wermuth Who hid my paddle?

    I've always used Titebond 3. but I think I need to try some G Flex.
     
  18. MGC

    MGC Paddlephile

    I repaired a damaged fiberglass headlamp shell on a big old Freightliner truck with it yesterday. I finished the repair with fiberglass today. The G-flex gave me all of the time I needed to pull everything into place and figure out a total Rube Goldberg combination of bailing twine, pieces of wood and clamps to hold it while it set. Once it set the whole thing was pretty much rock solid. Sweet corn and peaches in trade....:D
     
    Rob Stevens likes this.
  19. Howie

    Howie Wooden Canoe Maniac

    Ok... I'm a believer too. Worked great on stems & rail tips. G-flex dries much better than stuff I've been getting at the hardware store.
     
  20. owlsroost

    owlsroost Fishing Guide

    You folks are talking about G-Flex 650 - 8 correct? Or are you using G-Flex 655?
     
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2019 at 4:06 PM

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