Attaching Oar Locks On Old Town W/sponsons

[thechief]

I am nearing the completion of the restoration of a 16' 1943 OT HW with original sponsons.This is only my 2nd canoe 40 years after the 1st. Anyway Ive owned this canoe for years never thinking id take it on,the sponsons put me off. Anyway its filled and curing. I bought oar locks from Shaw and Tenney. I though now would be a good time to attach them before I started the painting. When I set the base of their oar lock on the top of the sponson and put the oar lock into its base the bottom of the U or lock is just about flush with the outer and inner gunnels maybe a tad lower. Do I need to raise the base of the lock or can I just screw it right into the gussets within the sponson? I saw one photo where a guy mounted a piece of Oak and then the base of the oar lock. It wasnt an OT. Im thinking I dont need to raise it. Id like your opinion please. Also when I do mount them should I use bedding compound or any sort of adhesive to hold them in place or are the 4 screws sufficient? thanks Hank

 

[Benson Gray]

Old Town usually mounted the oarlock on a small wood riser on top of the sponson as shown at http://www.wcha.org/forums/index.php?attachments/8524/ and http://www.wcha.org/forums/index.php?attachments/6565/ for example. The one shown below is from my 1936 Otca. Bedding compound would be good to reduce the chances of any water leaking into the sponson through the screw hole but the screws will be taking all of the strain so adhesive doesn't seem necessary. Let me know if there is anything else that I can do to help. Good luck,

Benson

 

[Dave Osborn]

I always make sure that there is good wood inside the sponson for hold down screw engagement before attaching the sponson to the canoe.

 

[thechief]

Thanks, old town added 2 gussets at the factory at the right location and spaced perfectly inside the sponsons to allow for theses oar locks to be screwed into. Do you think 4 screws is enough? If I extend the riser block it will span about 12" long to be able to attach to the other gussets. All the gussets are spaced equally except for the center location I mentioned but would be twice as strong.

 

[Dave Osborn]

Four screws should be fine, but if your riser is 12” long, I’d put a couple more in. Possibly hide them under the oar lock base

 

[thechief]

Thanks , I like what you've shown me and thats exactly what Id like to do. My concern still is a strong attachment. I can use 4 screws and am able to make the attachment to the correctly spaced gussets within the sponsons if you guys thinks that sufficient thats what ill do. My next question is If I dont raise the lock base can you tell from my photos if the locks are to low therefore should be raised anyway so the base of the lock is flush with the inner gunnels. Never have rowed a canoe it looks to me like the Id be able to row without the gunnels being hit since Id have to really raise the paddle for the oar to hit the gunnel. Lastly on both examples youve shown me there are 4 more screws on the riser,If I made the riser the same length as yours the screws for the riser will miss the inner gussets. Is that ok and will what wood is in those extended areas be beefy enough to get a good grip? As you well know at this point I dont want to mess up all my hard work. I lack the confidence to just start making holes .

 

[Dave Osborn]

Your riser screws need to go into good wood. The wood from the factory in sponsons is usually cedar and maybe spruce. Both are kinda soft. That’s why I mentioned making sure that good wood is inside the sponson prior to installing them. Also need to insure that the original holes are not wallowed out and will allow for good thread engagement if you are going to use them.
Sounds like you may be able to row with out the riser. Try it. If not add the riser.

 

[thechief]

Maybe its too late ? this is the wood within the spoonsons it's

all softwoods nothing extra added but its never been apart until this restoration. What would you do?

 

[thechief]

I could extend the riser so I can screw into the next gusset away from the center 2.